Mendocino NF: The Original Backcountry Discovery Trail is an Overlander's Paradise

The Mendocino segment of the California Backcountry Discovery Trail was dedicated in 1996, making it the very first BDT. It was a partnership between California’s national forests and the California State Parks OHV Division. For years, California’s OHV community had dreamed of a motorized dirt route stretching from the Mexican border to Oregon, and the Mendocino BDT was the first real step toward making it a reality. More BDTs would follow in the years to come, including segments in Six Rivers, Lassen, Modoc and Plumas national forests, to name a few. That was 14 years before the RideBDR team released their first Backcountry Discovery Route (the Washington BDR) in 2010.

Nearly 30 years later, “The Mendocino” (as locals call it) is still one of the best places in the West to get away from the crowds and explore an expansive, rugged forest filled with nearly endless dirt roads.

The southern section of the forest with Clear Lake in the background.

1,500 Miles of Dirt

The Mendocino National Forest sits in California’s Coast Range, about three hours north of San Francisco and Sacramento. It’s the only national forest in California that isn’t crossed by a paved road, and has roughly 1,500 miles of dirt roads open to vehicles. Despite that expansive network of dirt roads and trails, it sees only a fraction of the traffic of busier national forests out West like Inyo, Tahoe or Oregon’s Deschutes.

The landscape changes depending on your elevation and which side of the forest you’re on. The western half gets considerably more rain, so it tends to be more lush, with more rivers and creeks running through it. On the eastern side, especially around Stonyford, chaparral and scrub dominate the ridges. The higher elevations are mixed conifer forest, with several peaks topping 7,000 feet and South Yolla Bolly reaching 8,092 feet. Oak woodlands dominate the lower elevations, and you’ll find rolling grass hills and steep river canyons along the Eel and Black Butte rivers; all of which can be experienced in a single day.

With 1,000 plus miles of dirt roads, it's not much of a surprise that Mendocino was selected as the innaugural segment of the California Backcountry Discovery Trail.

Soft Roading Anyone?

Most of the dirt roads in the Mendocino qualify as soft roading (suitable for a stock crossover like a RAV4 or Subaru). The M roads (M1, M2, M3 and so on) are the primary routes through the forest and are mostly wide, graded dirt, which makes them a good fit for beginners just getting into backcountry exploration.

There are a small number of moderate trails scattered throughout the forest, but most of them are in the OHV network, clustered around the Stonyford trails. Mendocino National Forest has over 300 miles of OHV trails (mostly singletrack) running from Upper Lake all the way over to Stonyford and the Grindstone District, with many riders calling it the best trail riding in California.

Climbing up Hull Mountain to the old lookout site. At just under 7,000 feet, Hull Mountain is the most visited high peak in the forest.

Our Favorite Areas

M1, North of Hull Mountain. M1 is the main north-south road through the forest. Our favorite stretch runs from Hull Mountain north to the Black Butte and Eel rivers. Many of our favorite camps are along this stretch too, with views of the surrounding Coast Range and incredible sunsets to the west.

M6 Through the State Game Refuge. This is one of the most beautiful drives in the forest. M6 goes deep into the mountains into the game refuge following the Eel River to its headwaters. There are a few campsites scattered along the banks of the Eel.

Lake Pillsbury Basin. Tule elk were reintroduced to the basin in the late 1970s, and Mendocino is one of only two national forests in California that are home to tule elk. Fall and winter are the best times to visit. The summer crowds are gone, you have a much better chance of seeing the herd around Gravelly Valley, especially in the meadows just beyond Oak Flat campground.

One of our favorite camps in the forest. A bluff just out of frame provides the perfect vantage point for watching the setting sun.

Places to Visit

Hull Mountain. At 6,873 feet, Hull Mountain has 360-degree views and the remains of an old fire lookout. The last couple of miles are steeper and rockier, so AWD vehicles should take the easier fork.

Anthony Peak. At 6,959 feet, Anthony Peak is the highest point in Mendocino County and has the last human staffed lookout in the forest. On a clear day you can see Mt. Lassen to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west.

The Eel River Below Scott Dam. Below Lake Pillsbury, the Eel River runs through a canyon with gravel bars that double as riverside camps. They are often busy during the summer months. Between the lake and the river there’s plenty of swimming, paddling and fishing.

While crowds flock to the lake and rivers in summer, our favorite time to visit is spring when the hills are still green.

When to Go

One of our favorite times to visit is in mid to late spring when, the rivers, creeks and streams are flowing swiftly from swowmelt and the the hills are still green. The high elevation passes over FH7 and M1 are typically open by May.

Mendocino National Forest provides year round access for camping and exploration. Lower elevation areas like the Bear Creek corridor, the Lake Pillsbury Basin (our main winter go-to) and Stonyford/Fouts Springs stay open through the winter and wet season. The higher are typically under snow, so exploring is often limited December through April.

Planning Your Trip

We think the best way to explore the forest is by choosing an overland routes that fits your timescale. These two routes hit many of the most scenice areas within the forest.

• https://www.overlandtrailguides.com/post/mendocino-backcountry-discovery-trail about 167 miles over 2 to 3 days. It follows the route of the original 1996 BDT and is a good introduction to the forest.

• Mendocino Grand Circuit: 315 miles over 3.5 to 6 days. It covers more of the forest’s most scenic areas, including Hull Mountain and Anthony Peak.

Both routes consist of primarily mild dirt roads and are doable in a stock 4x4, with plenty of dispersed camping along the way. The Grand Circuit does offer an alternative route with an extended stretch of moderate trail and we think this route is the best way to experience the diverse landscapes of the forest.

There’s no fuel in the Lake Pillsbury Basin since the Soda Creek store closed in 2025. Fuel up in Upper Lake, Potter Valley or Covelo, and bring extra if you need it.

You can find both route guides, along with the GPX files, on our site.